Concealed-stitch binding machine



July 29. 1924. 1,502,778 c. R. HUGHES CONCEALED STITCH BINDING MACHINEFiled Feb. 28. 1921 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 July 29. 1924.

c. R. HUGHES CONCEALED STITCH BINDING MACHINE Filed Feb. 28. 4Sheets-Sfieet 2 Jul 29, 1924.

c. R. HUGHES CONCEALED S TITCH BINDING MACHINE Filed Feb. 28 1921 4Sheets-Sheet 5 July 29 1924.

CONCEALED STITCH' BINDING MACHINE Filed Feb. 28 1921 4 Sheets5heet 4 ya2,5 "In" I I 2 22 a mu 119%, i a I Z 3 gvwe'ntoz Z6 a] lvumlucajhjw rraoSTATES PATENT 0F 1,502,778 FlCE.

.GHARLES ROBERT HUGHES, or UrIoA, riw YORK, ASSIGNOR r0 uNIoN SPECIALMACHINE COMPANY, or cHIcAeo, I.I'.INoIs A CORPORATION or ILLINOIS.

OONGEALED-STITCE BINDING; MACHINE Application fil'kir b' ar 28,1921.Serial No. 448,424.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, CHARLES R. HUGHES,

of the folder the binding strip;

a citizen of the United States, residing at Utica, in the county ofOneida, State of New" York, have invented certain new and usefulImprovements in Concealed stitch Binding Machines, of which thefollowing is a description, reference being had to the accom panyingdrawing and'to the figures of reference marked thereon. a

The invention relates to new and useful improvements in sewing machinesand more particularly to a sewing machine for attach-' ing a binding toa body garment by means of stitches which are concealedfrom view at theright or faceside of the garment.

' An object of the in'ventionis to provide 'a machine of the abovecharacter with a folder having means for guiding a binding strip to theneedle in a plane at right'angles tothe line of feed and for reversingthe strip and for infolding the upper edge thereof about the path of theneedle and then directing the infolded edge across the path of theneedle so that-the needle will penetrate the-inturned upper edge portionof the strip, whereby the stitching thread is conoealed from view by theupper body portion of said binding strip at the, right or face 1 provedfolder;

side of the garment.

A further object'of the invention is to provide a folder for a sewingmachine of the above type which is provided with means for folding thelower edge portion of the bin-ding stri'p outwardly before it isreversed, so that when reversed the lower portion of the binding stripwill have its edge portion inturned.

These and other objects' will 'in part be obvious and will in part behereinafter more fully disclosed.

. .In the drawings- 7 Figure 1 is a. view from the left-hand end of amachin embodying myimprove- -ments; I A A Figure 2 is a top planxiew ofmy. Figure .3 is a front view of the folder; Figure 4 is-a rear view ofthe" folder; [Figure 5 is a perspective view of the folder looking. froma point in rear of the folder, as applied to the machine;

Figure 6 is a sectional view on-the-"line 6--6 of Figure 2; also showingat one side of the folderthe binding strip;

Figure 7 is a sectional view on the line 77 of Figure 2;"also showing atone side the binding and body fabric and the direction of movement ofthe binding strip for placing the same about the edge of the bodyfabric;

Figure 11 is a view on the line 10'10 of Figure 10, but showing inaddition to the bindinga section of the folder and also the needle;

Figure 12 is a top plan view showing a slightly modified form of folderwherein the under edge of the binding strip is flat and n t inturned; a

Figure 13 is a sectionalview on the line 1313 of Figure 12;

Figure 14 is a sectional view through the body fabric having the bindingapplied thereto by the folders shown in Figures 12 and 13; i

Figure 15 is foot; and

Figure 16 is a. plan view of .the'presser a side view of the presserfoot'and showing the presser. bar in section.

The invention from its broadest aspect is directedto a machine having aneedle disposed in a line at an obtuse angle to the plane of the worksupport so as to facilitate the folding of the edge of the binding stripabout the path of the needle and the direct ing of the inturned portion.of the binding strip across the" path of the needle to form concealedstitches.

A machine of this general type is shown and described in the applicationof Robert R. Hughes, J r., Serial No. 310,073, filed July 11,1919, andthe present invention is an improvement upon the machine shown in saidapplication. The invention resides particularly in the folder and the.manner of needle. The folder is provgded with means for guiding a.bindi'ngstrip n'a line at right supporting the same and its relation tothe j angles to the line of feed and for reversing said strip andfoldingthfedgb portion of] the strip about the path of the needle afterit has been reversed and directing the infolded portion across the pathof the needle.

the upper edge portion of the binding relative to the needle path.

Referring more in deatil to the drawings, 1 have shown my invention asapplied to a sewing machine having a bed 1, carrying a work support 2and a standard 3, having an overhanging arm which carries a bracket 4,in which reciprocates a needle bar 5, carrying a needle 6. The needlebar s set so as to reciprocatedn a line forming an obtuse angle to theplane of the work support.

Said bed 1 is mounted on an inclined support 7 so that the work support2 inclines.

upwardly from front to rear. Mounted on the work support 2 is a folderwhich includes a supporting bracket 8 and a binding strip guiding andfolding device 9. The support 8 is securedto the work sup rt by means oftwo screws 10-10 whic ii pass through a retaining plate 11 and throughan elongated slot in the support 8. There are also four screws 12passing through the support 8 and each of these screws is provided witha cone-shaped point 13 and a lock nut 14. Each screw has a slot for ascrew-driver so that it may be adjustedand then held in an adjustedposition by the lock nut. It will readily be seen that by themanipulation of .these screws 12, the folder may be tilted in anydirection back and forth or laterally, as desired, and the purpose ofthis particular manner of supporting the folder will be hereinafter morefully described. A

The folder proper, for guiding and folding the binding strip, is carriedby an inclined supporting plate 15, which is integral with a horizontalsupporting plate 16 and this horizontal supporting plate 16 is securedto the "support 8 by means of screws 17. As clearly shown in Figure 1,these supporting plates 15 and 16 are secured to the machine so that theplate 16 is substantially horizontal. The main body fabric is indicatedat F and said main body fabric is led over the plate 16, thence ddwn theinclined plate 15 and underneath the presser foot '18. The inclinedplate 15 is substantiallyparallel with the path of the needle 6, whichis inclined to the plane of the work support,

as clearly shown in Figure 1. By setting the -machine on the inclinedsupport 7, the fabric is led in a substantially horizontal plane, thendownwardlyin a plane substantially parallel with the needle path andthen under the presser foot, and it is while the fab ric is passingalong substantially parallel with the needle path that the binding stripis applied thereto, as will be described more wardly extending curvedguiding por-' tion 25.

a The folder proper is provided with a guiding portion 26 which receivesthe binding and said guiding portion is slotted at 27 to receive a toolfor assisting in the in- ,sertion of the binding strip. Said guidingportion 26 is formed with inner and outer walls 28 and 29, as shown inFigures 6, 7. and 8, are gradually curved so as to centrally fold thebinding strip intermediate its edges as it passes through this portionof the folder. In Figure 6 of the drawings, I have shown the bindingstrip at B, and it will be noted that at the receiving end and adjacentthereto the binding is flat. The inner wall 28 is provided with a curvedpor-- tion 30 which extends about the adjacent edge of the wall 29 forthe purpose of turningthe lower edge of the binding strip outwardly' asit is centrally folded intermediate its edge portions. In Figure 7, Ihave shown at b the edge as it begins to fold outwardly. In Figure 8this edge portion b is shown as well bent back upon the body portion ofthe binding strip, so that the binding strip as it passes through theguiding portion 26 will be centrally folded between its edge portionsand the lower edge portion thereof only .will be folded outwardly upoiithe body portion of the binding. Carried by this guiding portion 26 is ascroll 31. The end of the guiding portion 26 is cut at an incline ofsubstantially fortyfive degrees to the longitudinal axis of said portion26 and the binding strip after it leaves the end of the guiding portion26 is reversed or inverted and led through the scroll 31. This reversingof the binding strip is accomplished afterqthe well known fashion of anEnglish binder.

It will be apparent, of course, that the lower folded edge portion 6 ofthe binding the binding strip about the path of the needle. The scrollalso receives the edge of the body fabric and as a consequence placesthe binding strip about the edge of the body fabric. In Figure 11, Ihave shown on an enlarged scale the relation of the scroll of the folderto the body fabric. the binding strip and the path of the needle. Inthis figure the inclined plate is. of course. shown as at the right ofthe body fabric which passes down along said inclined plate. The scrollis formed by curving the plate 15. as shown in Figure 9. where thisplate 15 is indicated as. being curved at 32 and ending in an inturnedportion 33. Said scroll is soldered or otherwise secured to the guidingportion 26. and

this guiding portion 26 is also soldered or otherwise secured to theinclined plate 15.

The inclined plate 15 is provided with a slot 34 which ermits the underedge portion of the bin ng to pass through the plate 15 to the scroll.The body fabric F extends well into the scroll and the binding. as hasbeen .noted, is-placed about the edge of the body fabric.

As clearly shown in Figure 11. the needle 6 passes through the scrolland the binding is folded about the path of the needle. The body fabricalso passes through the scroll and while therein moves in a directionsubstantially parallel with the needle. As the binding and body fabricleaves the scroll they pass underneath the presser foot of the machine.and, in order to accomplish this, they are turned into a plane at anobtuse angle to their path of travel in the scroll and fed across theneedle path. so

that the needle penetrates the inturned por-.

tion of the binding strip. then the body fabric and then the lowerportion of the binding strip. As a result. the needle thread is laidbetween the upper inturned portion of the binding strip at the outer orupper face of the body fabric and the binding strip itself. and thus thethread is concealed by the upper face portion of the'binding strip. Thisline of stitching, as clearly shown in Figure 10, is very close to thefold in the upper edge portion of the binding strip and this holds thebinding tightlv about the edge of the body fabric. The stitches areindicated diagrammatically at s in the drawings.

Inasmuch as the needle must be free from engagement with the bindingstrip until the point desired for penetration is reached. it isessential that the'folder shall be set so that the needle will becentral of the scroll. or substantially so. This maybe readilyaccomplished by manipulating the threaded screws 12 which will tilt thefolder forward or back, or to the right or to the left. as desired. Inother words, these screws. together with the main clamping screws,prothe needle. As the binding strip and body fabric leave the folderthey pass underneath the presser foot and the curved portion 25 of thefoot engaging the binding strip at the fold, aids in retaining the stripfrom spreading at the time the needle is penetrating the intolded edgeportion thereof.

In Figures 12 and 13. I have shown a slightly modified form of folderwhereby the lower face portion of the binding strip will remain flat andunfolded as it is stitched to the body fabric. In Figure 14. the bodyfabricis indicated at F and the lower face portion of the binding stripis indicated at b.

As clearly shown in Figures 12 and 13, theguiding portion merely foldsthe binding strip centrally between its edges and the lower edge is notout-turned or folded. as is done in the other form of folder described.Therefore when the binding strip is reversed or inverted. the lower faceportion will. be flat and unfolded.

Like letters of reference have been applied enables the body fabric tobe crowded well into the folder which. of course. causes the binding tobe filled with the body fabric. This is especially desirable institching collarettes to garments.

In one form of the invention the under face-portion of the binding stripis infolded and this is accomplished by out-folding or turning out theedge portion of the binding strip before it is reversed and then when itis reversed said outturned portion will be inturned and the other edgeportion of the binding strip is inturned and folded about the path ofthe needle after it is reversed. In the other form of the invention theunder face portion of the binding strip is not inturned and it'lies fiatwhen secured to the body fabric.

The curved section 25 on the presser foot bears against the bindingstrip as it leaves the scroll. and. therefore. serves as a guide for thebinding strip and tends to prevent said binding strip from creeping orexpanding laterally.

It is obvious that minor changes in the details of construction may bemade without departing from the spirit of the invention as set forth inthe appended claims.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire tosecure by Letters Patent, is:

1. In a sewing machine, the combination of a work support, a feedingmechanism, a .ieedle arranged to reciprocate in a line at an obtuseangle to the work support, and a folder for guiding a binding strip tosaid needle in a line at right angles to the line of feed and'forfolding said strip between its edges, said folder having means forreversing the strip and for infolding the upper edge portion thereofabout the path of reciprocation of the needle and for directing theinturned portion of the strip across the path of the needle.

2. In a sewing machine, the combination of a work support, a feedingmechanism, a needle arranged to reciprocate in a line at an obtuse angleto the work support, and a folder for guiding a binding strip to saidneedle in a line at right angles to the line of feed and for foldingsaid strip between its edges, said folder having means for reversing thestrip and for infolding the upper edge portion thereof about the path ofreciprocationof the needle and for directing the inturned portion of thestrip across the path of the needle, said folder also having means foroutturning the lower edge portion of the binding before it is reversed,whereby said binding when reversed will have the lower edge portionthereof inturned.

3. In a sewing machine, the combination of a work support, a feedingmechanism, a needle arranged to reciprocate in a line at an obtuse angleto the work support, and a folder for guiding a binding strip to saidneedle in a line at right angles to the line of feed, said folder havinga guiding portion for receiving the binding strip and for folding thebinding strip intermediate its edge portions, said guiding portion atthe delivery end thereof being cut at an angle for permitting thereversing of the binding strip, and a folding scroll for receiving thereversed binding strip and for infolding the upper edge portion thereofabout the path of reciprocation of the needle and for directing theinturned portion across the needle path.

4. In a sewing machine, the combination of a work support, a feedingmechanism, a needle arranged to reciprocate in a line at an obtuse angleto the work support, and a folder for guiding a binding strip to saidneedle in a line at right angles to the line of feed, said folder havinga guiding portion for receiving the binding strip and for folding thebinding strip intermediate its edge portions, said guiding portion atthe deupper edge portion thereof about the path 7 of reciprocation ofthe needle and for directing the inturned portion across the needlepath, and a supporting plate leading into said folding scroll fordirecting the edge of a body fabric through the scroll, 7 whereby thebinding as it passes through the folding scroll is placed about theedges of the body fabric.

5. In a sewing machine, the combination of a work support, a feedingmechanism, a 0 needle arranged to reciprocate in a line at an obtuseangle to the work support, and a folder for guiding a binding strip tosaid needle'in a line at right angles to the line of feed, said folderhaving a guiding por- 5 tion for-receiving the binding strip and forfolding the binding strip intermediate its edge portions, said guidingportion at the delivery end thereof being cut at an angle for permittingthe reversing of the binding strip, a folding scroll for receiving thereversed binding strip and for infolding the upper edge portion thereofabout the path of reciprocation of the needle and for directing theinturned portion across the needle path, said guiding portion of thefolder being provided with means for outturning the lower edge portionof the binding strip before said strip is reversed.

6. In a sewing machine, the combination of a, work support, a feedingmechanism, a needlearranged to reciprocate in a line at an obtuse angleto the work support, and a folder for guiding a binding strip to saidneedle, said folder including a guiding por- 5 tion arranged at rightangles to the line of feed and shaped so as to fold the binding stripbetween its edges, said guiding portion at the delivery end thereofbeing formed on an angle of forty-five degrees to the line of feed so asto reverse the binding strip, a folding scroll for receiving the stripafter it is reversed, said folding scroll having a curved portionextending around the path of the needle for folding the upper 1'15 edgeportion of the binding strip about the path of the needle. and a plateextending laterally from said curved scroll for di-- recting a bodyfabric into the scroll. c

7. In a sewing machine, the combination of a work support, a feedingmechanism, a needle arranged to reciprocate in a line at an obtuse angleto the work support, a folder for guiding a binding strip to saidneedle, said folder including a guiding portion arranged at right anglesto the line of feed and shaped so as to fold the binding strip betweenits edges, said guiding portion at the delivery end thereof being formedon an angle of forty-five degrees scroll for directing a body fabricinto the scroll, said guiding portion being provided wit-l1 means foroutturning the lower edge portion of the binding strip before said stripis reversed.

In a sewing machine, the combination of a work support, a feedingmechanism, a needle arranged to reciprocate in a line at an obtuse angleto the work support, a folder for receiving and folding and reversing abinding strip and having means for infolding the upper edge portion ofthe binding strip about the path of the needle and for directing theinturned portion of the strip across the path of the needle, a supportfor said folder, and means for attaching said support to the worksupport of the machine whereby said folder may be adjusted forward andback, and laterally for centering the needle in the means for foldingthe upper edge portion of the bind ing strip.

.9. In a sewing machine, the combination of a work support, a feedingmechanism, a needle'arranged to reciprocate in a line at an obtuse angleto the worksupport, a folder for receiving and guiding and reversing abinding strip and having means for folding the upper edge portion of thebinding strip about the path of the needle and directing the inturnedportion of the strip across the path of the needle, 3. support for saidfolder, clamping screws for securing the support for the folder to thework support of the machine, and a plurality of positioning screwsextending through the folder support and bearin against the work support-for tilting the fdlder forward and back and laterally.

10. In a sewing machine, the combination is directed? of a work support,means on which said work support is mounted, so that the work supportinclines forward from front to rear, a feeding mechanism, a needlearranged to reciprocate in a line at an obtuse angle to the worksupport, a folder for guiding a binding strip to said needle, ahorizontal supportin plate over which the body fabric is directed; aninclined supporting plate carried thereby, and substantially parallelwith the path of the needle, said folder being mounted on said inclinedsupport-ing plate and having a folding scroll extending about the pathof the needle.

f11. In a sewing machine, the combination 0 work support is mounted, sothat the work support inclines forward from front to rear, a feedingmechanism, a needle arranged to reciprocate in a line at an obtuse angleto the work support, a folder for guiding a binding strip to saidneedle, a horizontal supportin plate over which the body fabric aninclined supporting plate carried thereby, and substantially parallelwith the path of the needle, said folder being mounted on said inclinedsupporting plate and having a folding scroll extending about the path ofthe needle, said folding scroll being formed as a part of the inclinedplate. 12. In a sewing machine, the combination of a work support, apresser foot, feeding mechanism, a needle arranged to reciprocate in aline at an obtuse angle to the work support, a folder for receiving anduiding and reversing a binding strip and having means for folding theupper edge portion of the binding strip about the path of the needle anddirecting the inturned portion of the strip across the path of theneedle, said presser foot having a curved portion disposed so as to bearagainst the binding strip as it leaves the folder for preventin thebindin strip from creeping 0r expan ing lateral y.

In testimony ture.

ROBERT HUGHES.

whereof, I afiix my signaa work support, means on which said

